Boy did I have a great day on Tuesday..Well to start it off
Monday I decided to go and borrow me mates longboard and g
ive it a birl seeing the swell was only a couple of feet...
So headed down the beach just me and the landy ( landrover
)..Found a little beach break got the mal of the top,,man i
t had to way 40+kgs and it must have been about 12'+ long a
nd 30 yr old..Well proceeded out and saw one of me standup
mates out there,,which he then decided to laugh and scorn m
e and move an extra 100m away from me as he new how leathal
this weapon could be..So to cut a long story short I had 6
waves and 6 nose dives on these sucky little waves and dec
ided that I should stick to bodyboarding..But the best was
yet to come that evening the wind was starting to blow from
the NEast and all I could think about was Main Beach and h
ow it was 3' to 4' from the onshore winds that had been blo
wing for the last 4 days..Well Tuesday morn arrived and the
re were light NWest winds,,Kissed the wife goodbye to work,
,and went straight to the bodyboard bag and choose the 4pla
y board..Arrived at da beach and it was sic 3' to 4' barrel
ls slight NEast swell and had three of my best waves since
I've learnt to lid..They were at least 3 to 5 second barrel
s and of coarse I was the only lidder out..Spent about 1 1/
2 hrs out then came in put the board away then swam out and
took me GOPro camera out and took the last few shots that
I had left on the film,,but they were all of the local stan
dups a couple of them were just ripping it..How good it wou
ld be to be so young again,,just memories..But hopefully th
ere be more of those sechies..