i just got out of the water and need something relaxing to
do.  basically i woke up this morning, saw some 10ft s
ets on a reef near here, and decided for once and for all i
was just gonna ride it.  so i called a friend and ask
ed him if he wanted to go out...he realized i should probab
ly not go by myself as i've never ridden the spot before an
d ok it was a bit big.  anyway i can't paddle in very
fast, i'm just not in good enough shape.  so this leav
es me another option, sit farther inside and as it turned o
ut, drop more or less in the air to get in.  um well t
his works sort of unless the wave is closing out.  lon
g story short:  wiped out, took set on head over reef,
lost board, swam rather far back to shore.  friend's
leash broke when he tried to come find me in the whitewash.
  good experience tho.  :-D  I am going to s
leep now.  Anyway, yay for riding waves!!!  Aside
from not breathing for a bit too long and I rode like crap
, it was sweeet!  another friends comment:  man y
ou got trashed out there!  like i didn't notice. 
;-)  Ah well something to practice.