in way too soon, i am gonna be leaving chile after 6 months
here. wow i have seen and done so much - in terms of body
boarding and just living - and july 5 i am headed back to t
he east coast US. 7 more days of work, then 7 of bodyboard
ing, more or less. the last 12 days i was surfing twice a
day, with 2 decent swells. scared myself out of my mind, g
ot some awesome barrels, almost dropped into the most power
ful wave i've seen until I realized 4mo of experience on re
ef isn't enough to ride it yet (hmm yeah the surfers were t
owing in) - although now I'm not sure i made the right deci
sion. Still, one of my friends wiped out really bad there
that morning, and he knew what he was doing way more than I
do. I'm gonna miss it though - when the swells come in it
s so intense. Really, I am glad all this happened - all of
it - the hard times, fun ones, scary and intense and rewar
ding ones, and ultimately the friends I've made - some will
be lifelong I hope. Buena onda.