heeeeeeeeeeeeelp. one week today i flew back to Connecticu
t, USA after a year in Australia and 6 months in Chile. Th
ree days before I left, a chilean friend asked me if I want
ed to go surf a spot I have never surfed before the next mo
rning. The swell was coming up (think winter in Chile) so
I was like um how dangerous will this be? He honestly said
, "its ok, pray tonight. And stretch, and eat someting goo
d." I was like um okay? The next morning, 6am, we get up
and pick up two other guys to go to this spot. The heavies
t waves I think I've ridden, but SO FREAKING FUN!!!! 3 hou
rs way too good. Then that afternoon I was going to sleep
when another friend stopped by...we went to surf another pr
etty heavy left. When he is exited I should be worried, bu
t I paddled out. The two guys I was with called me into a
wave, so I went. Except from where I was I had to backdoor
it...the most insane barrel of my life then I got nailed i
n the head by the lip...ouch. That was not good. Anyway,
for a few days I was glad to have a break, but now I am bac
k HERE and DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO!!!!! I just have these i
mages in my head of sweet waves from that last day. And an
Argentinian friend asked me if I want to go to the canarie
s in april but I CAN'T because I have university. I can't
believe this. I should be happy though that I ever got to
surf waves like that...and I will go back.