so i thought moving back to pennsylvania would work. its n
ot. i was in the grocery store yesterday, and i just stopp
ed walking. its like there is a massive hole in my heart w
hen i can't bodyboard. i have 1 more year until i get my d
egree...but right now i don't think i can do it. i just ha
ve the image of the last wave i had before coming back in m
y mind...backdooring a heavy, glassy barrel until the end s
ection closed out. i remember thinking man this is being a
live. then looking up from deep underwater after the wave
closed and seeing the sun sparkling through. people here h
aven't even heard of bodyboarding.
heh i was a good student before...everyone was like oh you
will be so successful. they don't get that it doesn't mat
ter cause when i leave the ocean, i leave my heart there to
o.