25/5/06
Waited a long time for this, my local spot final
ly had some decent hollow thick waves. Just three of us in.
Had about 8 barrels in 20 minutes. Really shallow and easi
ly makeable barrels. I faceplanted the stones and have 
;a nice lump on my forehead to show for it. Started doublin
g up in the shorey and you'd get thrown onto the dry shingl
e. Hopefully this summer will be a good one, we've had
waves every day recently we don't normally get more than a
few surfs a month. We've been getting some fun water video
footage, but today the camera decided to not work, typical
, it would have looked sick from the water.Waiting to see i
f its any good for the drop.