Dropped my mom
off up in PSL, said bye and headed down to Jensen bch. I ha
ven’t surfed there since the bullshark bumping. I’m a littl
e freaked out by the place ever since, which I know is stup
id. Took the new MS out. I love it :)

Water was cold
even with the wetsuit. Paddling out, I was freaked. Had no
spit. Lol!  Bu
t then, got into the groove and felt fine. Afterward Gerry
was getting all bundled up and I didn’t feel cold once we g
ot out. But now I’ve got a cold so that’s what I get for be
ing a wiseass.