This been a great week. I got a motorcycle given to me, and
I got my ambulance driver licence, and the surfs been good
too.

I went out Wednesday even thou it was raining.


Surf is great this weekend I made it out to Pacifi
ca for Saturday, sets were 7-12ft. Hella exciting. I did ge
t caught in some big sets trying to make it to the&nbs
p;outer shell. Having those wave crash over on top of you i
s frighting, but exciting too. Waves are so powerful and be
autiful like a goddess.

Wish I could go today, but I
need to be a good boy. Stay home and study for my fin
nal exams. I have two one Monday and the other tuesday. The
classes are in Fire Science, I'm studing to be a firefight
er.