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Viewing 1 - 9 out of 15 Blogs.
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Bertha 2008 was a lot better than Bertha 1996. Mainly becasue my home was not destroyed this time and I was able to get three days of big surf in. The waves were big, chest to OH sets. Took a pounding. Great drops but the wind was not helpful so there was not a lot of wave to work with. Very steep stuff. Broke a leash and a buddy broke his 9ft longboard. Lots and lots of bruises. Fun anyway.
Nice day today. A full month went by with absolutely nothing to surf. Today had waist to chest, clean. Some dumping, but a few with nice drops and steepness. Getting covered was possible, but quick close outs were the norm. Grabbed a nice wave with a good wall and cruised. Turned up and hit the lip correctly, off the lip, turn and land. It was my first completed air. The nice thing... this was the first time it all came together, from the drop to picking the spot, to turn and execution. First time I saw it completely in my head and did it right. I was pretty happy with that. Beautiful morning. Got out just after sunrise, water warming up and it was good to see a nice sized crowd out. Even a couple of spongers. It is awesome to have a spot to surf, where there can be a good crowd and you still have your own break. And we still have a couple more months before the summer crowds start showing up. Good day.
On Friday we had the biggest day of the year so far. Head high with occasional over head. Had some real nice drop ins. Tubes were closing out a lot, though I was able to get into a couple. Steep stuff at first and really fast. Had a great time. This was the first big day with my new No6 Dekcuf so I worked on bottom turns, stalling and accelerating. The board is really great. The bat tail does slip a bit on the bigger and more steep breaks. The board gives me confidence to hit some sections that were once impossible. Fun wave of the day. Dropped in the biggest wave of the day. Stalled to get in to tube, the board nosed and was swept away from under me. Took a breath to accept the crush. Opened my eyes and I am in the tube bodysurfing. Had time to take a couple of breaths before the closeout. After that..not so fun. Awesome day.
I have had my new No6 Dekcuf since the beginning of January and have not had any decent swell to try it out. Finally a swell came in today. Waist to Chest high with some barrels. The board did great. It is so fast and easy to control. I am able to catch the wave so much earlier than before. I was loving the drop ins and bottom turns. Final two waves were the best. First was a near chest high wave. Dropped in with a nice bottom turn. Drifted up the face and slowed a bit to get covered up. Put on the speed and rode the longest tune of my life. It was a great ride. I have been working on speed control and it really paid off. Second wave was slightly smaller than the tube ride. Again had a good drop and bottom turn. Stayed in the pocket for good time, watching the lip to curl to try an air. Aimed and turned to the lip. Hit the lip later than I wanted, but for the first time I actually got in the air. Tryed to roll the wrong way and could not land it. This is a start. I felt the push of the wave and it was awesome. Another beautiful day. Air 70 degrees! with 51degree water and very sunny.
Small surf today. Maybe waist high. Glassy and sunny nice day. The standups were having a bit of trouble catching the smallish surf. Not me. Tube after Tube after Tube for me. No standup could fit.
There are not a lot of days where the standups are watching a BBer on almost every wave. That was my day today. Really fun.
Another beautiful sunny day to relax and surf.
Off from work today. Got out to the beach. Waves were small and little weak. BEAUTIFUL DAY! Temps in the high 50's and Sunny. Really great. Worked on dropknee a lot. Starting to make some progress. After that I got the new board out and practiced on that. Got one good spin in, other wise it was just time spent getting used to the stringer board. I love living on the coast. While I was floating today, I could not help but think how lucky I was to be out. To have the whole beach to myself. Awesome
I am stuck at work with waist to shoulder high CLEAN sets coming in! Everytime I check the surf report it is getting better adn better. How frustrating! I can only hope it holds out until Sat morning. The wind is to stay the same so there is a chance. New board and no good surf until today when I am trapped! CRAP!
Got out to the beach Saturday morning. Waist high stuff, mushy, but the drift was gone from friday. Caught a few wavesm though most were closeout. Really nice morning out. Sun was out and it was an easy float.
My new No6. Dekcuf came in on Wed! Got out for the first time today. Waist high, wiht A LOT of drift, really hard to get into. I was not able to get many rides in, but the board is assume. FAST, FAST, FAST. Very nimble as well. Hope the wind calms a little tonight so there will be a better wave in the morning. My first new generation board, seems great. Good surf to you.
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