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Samoa
Posted On 11/13/2007 13:38:30
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Went to Savii, Aganoa in Samoa for 12 days end of June / July. First day was 3'. 2nd day was 6' to 10'. Its a R/hander but the swell direction was not the right angle. Maybe only got 6 to 10 waves and only made about half of them. The rest of the week was about 6' and surfed a few other spots. Had a great time,nice people and culture. Still life in me yet. But hate to dissapoint everyone but I will buy a fish surf board 2008 6'4" 21 wide and about 3" thick only will use on small days and booger when it gets a bit heavier. Have fun everyone
Bought a mountain bike of a mate Mongoose $50.. Want to
try and get a bit fitter if that's possible..Got a new beau
t wireless speedo and milage counter among other things..Fi
rst ride left home and clocked up 22klm..Second ride 26klm.
.3rd ride 36klm..4th 42.5klm..And just two days ago 52.5klm
that took 3.5 hrs..Now my next big venture is to ride to t
he beach with the bodyboard strapped to the back have a sur
f for a couple of hrs then ride home..I figure I will need
approx 5hrs for this venture,,the return trip will be a 42.
5klm ride..By car it's just on 15 minutes..Just got to wait
for the surf conditions to be favourable..Gotta get fit fo
r Somoa next year as I didn't make it this year..Going with
4 mates all standup surfers and 20 yrs + younger..
Been back at work for the last 2 days and have missed ou
t on some cranking waves but being the weekend I'm not so p
issed of..Friday was my best day about 30 out and that was
a crowd.. Got in the water at 9am came out at 11am,,and wen
t straight back in with the GoPro wrist camera..I reckon I
got some good shots of the local lads can't wait to get the
film developed was in the right spot on every occasion but
need to get a helmet it's a bit of a dangerous hobby..The
only problem is that all the shots were stand up surfers,,b
ut I know most of them..Took 24 shots in one hr came back i
n and had another surf for an hour then that was me for the
day..3' to 4' NE ground swell just the perfect direction f
or the beach that I surf at..I think there is a wind change
in the morning so that's it for a couple of days,, could b
e lucky tomorrow it's my break day before night shift..Hope
everyone has got waves this weekend..
Does any one know why Bodyboarding is not an extrme sport?.
.And is snubbed by Foxtel and sporting channels..Look at th
e master Mike Stewart riding Teahupoo in the movement mag i
f that's not extreme and guts I'll be stuffed..Plus all the
other pro bodyboarders who just ripp through out the world
s best surf breaks and even places where standups would'nt
even consider surfing cause it's to out of control for them
..It should be fair we should show of our sport..
Well I know everyone would have heard of the shark attack t
hat happened on Straddie just lately,,which we would all ha
ve sympathy for that young girl..But now all of a sudden fo
r instance on Tuesday there was a shark spotted cruising ar
ound of Point Lookout..So they I think the council closed a
ll the beaches off..This was also on the channel 7 news tha
t night..That morning I had surfed a place on my own for ab
out an hour and yeh it had crossed my mind about the condit
ions,,it was murky the water was warm and you could ha
rdly see your hand in the water,,and it was only a couple o
f klm of where the attack took place..But tell me if I'm a
stupid idiot !!..If you came across a local surf spot that
you know it like the back of your hand and nobody was out w
ould you not take the oppotunity..? There are some spots I
would'nt surf on my own over here,,and I'm sure of all the
yrs I've surfed over here there has been numerous occasions
where some big mothers have swam underneath me..Do we now
let these predators and peoples fear drive from the love of
the ocean and sport that we love..I'm sure I wold'nt swim
in the middle of a swarm of bait fish I'm not that stupid..
But I wont be driven away from the ocean..Tell me what you
think..?
Boy did I have a great day on Tuesday..Well to start it off
Monday I decided to go and borrow me mates longboard and g
ive it a birl seeing the swell was only a couple of feet...
So headed down the beach just me and the landy ( landrover
)..Found a little beach break got the mal of the top,,man i
t had to way 40+kgs and it must have been about 12'+ long a
nd 30 yr old..Well proceeded out and saw one of me standup
mates out there,,which he then decided to laugh and scorn m
e and move an extra 100m away from me as he new how leathal
this weapon could be..So to cut a long story short I had 6
waves and 6 nose dives on these sucky little waves and dec
ided that I should stick to bodyboarding..But the best was
yet to come that evening the wind was starting to blow from
the NEast and all I could think about was Main Beach and h
ow it was 3' to 4' from the onshore winds that had been blo
wing for the last 4 days..Well Tuesday morn arrived and the
re were light NWest winds,,Kissed the wife goodbye to work,
,and went straight to the bodyboard bag and choose the 4pla
y board..Arrived at da beach and it was sic 3' to 4' barrel
ls slight NEast swell and had three of my best waves since
I've learnt to lid..They were at least 3 to 5 second barrel
s and of coarse I was the only lidder out..Spent about 1 1/
2 hrs out then came in put the board away then swam out and
took me GOPro camera out and took the last few shots that
I had left on the film,,but they were all of the local stan
dups a couple of them were just ripping it..How good it wou
ld be to be so young again,,just memories..But hopefully th
ere be more of those sechies..
Last night shift tonight then heading out for some clean
fun waves in the morning..Missed out the last couple of da
ys and there has actually been some swell hanging around..L
ast surf I had was last Sunday about 3' Deadmans on Straddi
e..Hopefully Main beach should be still working,,my mate wa
s telling me that he had main beach this morning at around
8am and it was going of and there was hardly anyone out..Bu
t a heap of people out by this arvo..Sorry folks but not lo
ng befote you are all back at skool and uni and I can
start to have some waves without the hassle just me and the
local stand ups...Take care and have a good week-end..
Pinch & a punch for the first of the moun
th and no return
HAPPY NEW YEAR FOR 2006
I'm
at work at present first day back after a 2.30am finish for
new years eve with friends and family at home had a ball..
On the wave front been another dismall week with small swel
l but have had fun swimming with the family at some of the
less crowded spots but man its been hot...But I was just in
formed the swell has just picked up to around 3' to 4' over
night..So Tuesday I'm into it.. Just checked Bouyweather.c
om and hopefully the swell will hang around a little bit...
But man is it crowded here at Straddie..I'm sorry for all t
he skoollies and uni people and holiday makers but I'm coun
ting the days when peace and quite returns..But all the sam
e I really hope everyone is having fun...So take care and s
urf 4 life
The latest Movement mag issue (9)...The master Mr Mike Stew
art surfing the mighty Teahupoo it's awsome and sic..This m
an has no fear..It soughts out the men between da boys,,,I'
m still a boy...I've just put the poster up at work in the
crib room..I'm trying to do my bit for bodyboarding by fill
ing the room up with posters,,I'm sure they will love this
one even the stand up guys will appreciate this poster
..
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