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Well, didn't make it to the FBA contest this weekend. My po
or little hubby got sick, so I had to take care of him. Sun
day I gave him some soup, he went to sleep and I snuck out
for a couple of hours. Went down to the pier where I used t
o surf all the time. Haven't been there since Hurricane Wil
ma, which changed the break for the worse. But for some rea
son, I felt like going there. Ran into this old guy Nardi,
who is a retired lifeguard and hangs out at the pier. He's
sort of like our Gandolf in an old guy, drunk sort of way.
But somehow he always knows where it's breaking in Fla. Any
way, he told me to go on out. All the kids were out surfing
the sandbar. There were about 6 people on the outside. I&n
bsp;didn't go  out there at first because the inside w
as actually breaking good for the booger. It was so ni
ce. Sunny and still warm. The water was glassy.  Paddl
ed outside after to talk to some people I hadn't seen in a
while. 

Have to work a split shift today, so ma
ybe there will be something this afternoon. 

Went out Sunday late afternoon. Brought both boards. Tried
to surf the 7'6 but it wasn't clean enough and I was with t
hese creepy guys giving me stink eye...two shortb. and one
sponj...can you believe? He didn't know what he was doing t
hough. He was just there. So I got out and went down beach.
Saw some people bodysurfing so I grabbed my MS and fins an
d kicked out. They were 3 kids from Montana, early 20's, re
ally nice kids. We had a good time. Then it was cool...the
sun started going down and there was a rainbow over the oce
an. It gave the ocean this real pretty gold color. We were
all diggin it. After the kids saw how much fun I was having
with the bb, they wanted to rent some. I told them where t
hey could find them and to get fins too. They were stoked!

We had some very clean waist to chest all week due to that
cool little phenom known as Bahamian bounce swell (NW winds
...pushes toward the Bahamas and bounces back to us, or som
ething along those lines). Pretty cool. Surfed day before T
hanksgiving right after work. It was very nice, cold, but n
ice. Glad I had a wetsuit. Turkey day was great. I try to s
tick to a veggie diet, but you can't beat Butterball. Am ve
ry very Thankful for everything and everyone in my life.

I was just looking at Nikki06's new little buddy Skipper (h
e's real cute, you should check him out) and remembered thi
s time I got popped by the state trooper for riding in the
"commuters only" lane on I-95. It was just me and Sam in th
e car and really I was just trying to pass some slow pokes.
Anyway, trooper pulls me over and says, "you can't be in t
his lane without another passenger" I said "I have another
passenger" and pointed at Sam. He said "human passenger". I
said "listen Sam is a better person than most humans I kno
w". Thank God Smoky had a sense of humor cause he let me go
.

Did get out on the 3rd day of that wind storm. But had some
sort of flu bug so I didn't stay out but maybe a half hour
or so. Went to the inlet yesterday, since it was flat here
. It was about waist to chest on some of the sets. I was ge
tting some really fun rights. And the rights were setting u
p nicely for rollos so it was so much fun. Then we went to
the truck to eat. We were gone maybe 15-20 min. Wolfed down
bologna sandwichs. When we came back, it was like a totall
y different ocean. The wind had picked up out of nowhere, c
oming onshore directly east. Blew everything out. We went b
ack in and made the effort but it just wasn't as fun. So we
went to mom's for dinner.

We're having some major wind here. Up to 30 mph out of the
ENE. Waves are overhead but the rip currents are very bad a
nd it is very choppy. Only saw two shortboarders out this m
orning, and they were very good. They actually had a very g
raceful style, not the usual gorilla stance, pumping the bo
ard. Watched them for a while with Sammy tucked under my ar
m. Saw two boogs out yesterday. One guy was a newbie and ju
st having a terrible time fighting the current. The other g
uy was good. He said it really wasn't worth getting wet ove
r. Tomorrow, the wind is going to calm down to about 15 to
20 mph, so I'll hold out till then. Had to work today anywa
y. Meanwhile check out youtube. Have to let it download fir
st. Youtube is slow. http://youtube.com/watch?v=ru-gpLcFpow

Nice day yesterday. That nasty summ
er humidity is finally going away. Went out at one of my lo
cal spots and booged for an hour. Then Gerry had to go to w
ork so said goodbye to him and headed down to my old spot t
o say hey to some friends and hopefully surf. Friends were
there but the waves weren’t. Took a ride down to F
t. Lauderdale beach just to cruise and listen to
Marshall Tucker. It was just such a nice day. Went back to
the same spot as in the morning and got in the water for a
bit. But the rip current was really bad and it just got to
be a drag fighting it. So went home and took a nap in the b
ack yard till Ger got home. Really nice day. Glad the winte
r swell is coming back so I don’t have to haul up coast for
a while.

 Haven't been out in a few weeks. Hopefully we get wav
es this weekend. It looks like we will. Been crazy busy at
work. And have been working on the side with a new local da
nce company. Someone recommended me and now I'm working as
a dance coach. God ballet is painful. Haven't done it much
since I retired. But it's nice to be the "bee-otch" who str
uts around the room, pounding out the rhythm, barking out o
rders..."Tuck that big ass in!"...etc. Actually, no I could
n't do that. I remember how it felt, you'd be doing your ba
r-work and this Nazi would be walking around the room, come
up behind you and belt you one with his cane if you weren'
t working up to his standards, getting yelled at, havi
ng someone work you till your feet bled. It sucked. And you
make less than the guys that move your scenery (they have
a stronger union). So I'll try to make it a more pleasant e
xperience for these dancers.

Anyway, I pray for sur
f this weekend!

Look at all these cool little guys
I'm old so little things surprise and amuse me. Anyway, do
n't you just love it when there aren't supposed to be any w
aves and you sense there is and you go and it's there? :big
grin:

Had to work yesterday, which sucks because it was Sunday,
but we only work 4 hours so no big. When I got home the win
d was coming out of the ENE at about 15. I had a feeling so
we went down to Wilson. Thar be waves. Found this sweet li
ttle spot right in front of the 3rd barstool at the Marriot
pool. If you stayed there you could get nice rights and le
fts. There was a big guy sitting there with a red shirt sla
mmin' them back to it was easy to spot. Caught this one wav
e going right and it was my ride of the day. It felt like t
he wave cradled me and held me like a child and I conformed
to it. It felt so completely natural. The reason I prefer
prone to standup. That feeling of intimacy that you get wit
h the water. Anyway, great sunset on the way home and dinn
er waiting in the slow cooker. Sweet. Peace

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