Viewing 1 - 5 out of 5 Blogs.

Today i woke up around 8:00am checked the surf report onlin
e looks very good.Got my gear packed and drove to a spot c
a
lled Arashi located down town part of the island.When i go
t
there it was around 8:40 am got out checked the waves som
e
nice sets where out there calling me .Dressed up and padd
l
ed out to sweet thing about this no one out there most are

at work or school very nice day.I caught wave after wave s
o
me nice 4 foot speedy waves me and my MS1 where cruising a
l
l morning.Around 11:30am some gromets got in the water som
e
young boys and a girl i did mark my territory good thing
t
hat they did not come to my side.Around 12:00pm i was max
o
ut i brought a protein bar with me the damn thing fell in
s
alt water i did not care i ate it like that.Scored some mo
r
e waves around 2:30 the waves started to die i got out lef
t
the grooms in the water i have to say good thing that the
y
payed me some respect.May be my face expression told them

to stay away...lol

Today was a great day i drived today to Waririruri this is
a spot on the island got there around 3pm the place was cro
wded but man the waves where huge and nice.


Got out there paddle out was a little tough but i got tru
easy there where many people like 30 minutes after caught
ing some sweet waves i saw in the horizon a set coming i sa
w that no body paid attention they where chatting.

I paddled more to the out side waaw i saw this 8 foot fa
ce forming coming to me i went for it this wave was nice i
got barreled i got cheered from the others this was the bes
t wave for the day.

When i was up on the wave i could see every one below like
i was on a roof top but it was sweet and a speedy wave i h
ad to hold the rail hard to the face the wave was like a wa
ll damn great day today .

Yesterday and today i was crusing in my car all around the
island wachting how this swell is forming.In the early morn
ing i went to Rincon it was huge over 15 foot waves but the
y where coming in sets of 3 total close out there was no ch
ance paddling out.After that i went inside to Rodgers beach
i wanted to check out the Rodger Reef and man it was on fi
re 10 plus waves some nice barrels where rolling sick it wa
s like a replica of the Banzai Pipeline.I made on last stop
i went down town to check a spot called Arashi it was oka
y but nothing compared to Rodger Reef i went back home to m
y home spot at Rodger Reef.Waw there where some sets so hug
e that it can get you scared for a moment no one out there
only me i dropped some huge barrels but you got to pay a pr
ice the price is dropping these waves you will get a good b
eating.I got beat dragged and swolled some water my body is
in some pain but it was worth and i would do it again to b
ad that no one checked this spot they lost a chance to sur
f 10 plus nice waves.Some people came in later but it was a
lready late the best waves where gone

These last days i was wachting Gamma closely because i knew
it would send some epic swell to the up-town part of the i
sland.Today i went to check the surf at Rodgers beach and m
an i was right there where 5 foot plus barrels coming in so
me nice left's and only one fellow bodyboarder out there.I
could not believe it only one soul out there i went out abo
ut 30 minutes the other bodyboarder had to go home.And it w
as only me out there what a day was it today wave after wav
e some bigger waves came in after 4pm today i did abuse my
body a bit i'm dead tired my ankles are bruised from the fi
ns my body has burn marks from the rash gaurd. Its was wort
h tomorrow i will check if they are still waves and i will
not call any one to tell them that the spot is on only a fe
w will i call.

Today i went surfing at wariruri the surf was over 5 foot n
ot well organised but still good.Droped some good waves the
y where harder to gaught because they where kindy choppy bu
t in generall still good.Tomorrow i will check the same spo
t the forecast are for 8 foot waves i'm prayin that i can g
et some better organised waves and bigger too.For the up co
ming weekend the forecast is for waves from 8 to 10 foot th
is would be a great chance to fully test the MS1 in these c
onditions.