back home in NZ and i shouldnt be whinging but fuck the sur
f has been sooooo fucken shit man. west coast apparently fi
red up big time back in august...cept its gone back to its
same ol shithouse massive 10-12ft south west mack truck siz
ed swells and howling onshores for the last two weeks solid
! have had some fun waves at bethells and the fotz but noth
ing to rave about...its all good that im back on the westsi
de with my bros and all that...but jeez theres been soooo m
any times ive sworn my head off cos all ive wanted to
do, is to just have stayed in tahiti until id be depor
ted or something!!! surf on moorea was cranking everyday be
fore i left! haapiti pass is a sick left...
anyways...ho
ping that the weather sorts its shit out soon, i havent bee
n working either...just waiting for the waves to get its sh
it sorted so i can get some more pits before thinking about
having to do the nine to five everyday!
will post up so
me more pix soon of my trip...ive got a few gems that i can
post up...but due to the heavy locals factor i cant name a
ny of the spots i went to in tahiti...or else i wont be wel
come back....
later$$$$$$
jk

tahiti!
scored unreal waves for the first 2 days ive
been here....chopes has been off the hook! all the int
ernational tow teams are there at the moment!
mike stewa
rt was on the telly getting slabbed at chopes!
im on an
outer island away from the madness lapping up the empt
y waves and perfection that is this place....

laters
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
jk

bored and chilly in chile! well i guess its always chance w
hen you have limited time in a country, and you just r
ock up to a spot and expect it to look like the shots it do
es on wannasurf.com! dammit! renaca looks like such a sick
beachie and its close as to santiago i figured itd be a goo
d spot to pass some time before jettin to easter island! bu
t alas the surf is flat and its lookin pretty miserable out
side...still tho..the wahines here are friendly as and its
saturday night! look out vina del mar!
plus im soooo st
oked the all blacks demo'd the ozzies and we've won back th
e tri nations from the boks! bloody good effort from both t
eams and theres still more rugby to come yet!
stu dogg,
im still unsure if im gonna be able to make it to your wed
ding, i have a feeling that tahiti is gonna suck the remain
ing few bucks from my account! still, there is the emergenc
y overdraft facility...hope the goldies been gettin some wa
ves, would love to get some superbank madness!
later$$$$
$$$$$
jk

surfed yesterday(thursday) and today...with today taking
the cake! solid 4ft...maybe scratching 5ft on some sets...
got me some solid barrels and made an insanely deep slab, i
backdoored this pit and stayed deep until there was a peak
of light and i squeaked out clean as a whistle and flying!
soooo stoked... local lid rider saw the whole thing...thou
ght i was a pro? so lied and said yeah... ha aha aaa..im a
local celebrity already! classic... but cereal tho...it was
a bullshit sick as slab and im definately stoked i made th
e trip down here!

water temp is around 8-10 degs...means you lose feeling
in your feet after about 15mins or so... but hey...what do
we need feet for anyways?? walking or something??!! i
ce cream headaches every duckdive and one local dude tried
to paddle out twice and ended up gettin nothing and going i
n cos his head hurt too much! have to admit it tho, th
e local lid riders are good bunch and pretty good at riding
considering the fact that most of their wetties are old as
the hills and theyre shivering in the water! thats dedicat
ion for ya! one dude offered to buy my wetty from me in the
water, he didnt even speak english (mores to the point i d
ont speak spanish but im learning!)but i clearly understood
that he thought that my wetty must be damned good cos i wa
s the only guy not shivering!

anyways im back to buenos aires tomorrow...hopefully th
e hostel telly which has a sports channel will be showing t
he rugby tri nations game live, cos i intend on gettin up a
t 4.30am to watch the abs smash the boks at the brook! fing
ers crossed!

chiles next on the list...flyin to santiago on the 30th
... then easter island on the 6th... bring on tahiti!!!! ye
eeeaaaahhh. wessssieeeeed reprazent!

thats about enough dribble from me...

brrrrrrr brrrr soooo cold here in mar del plata!! had a fun
surf today with just one other lid out! but i swear the wa
ters nearly as cold as cape town´s llanduno! around 8-10deg
s or so...bollocks cold! still had some fun 3ft wedgey righ
ts, coupla pits and some fun pull ins... just good to be ba
ck in the water! gonna have another surf tomoz cos then its
back to buenos aires then santiago! gonna try and get some
waves there....maybe north of santiago i heard of some dec
ent breaks..vina del mar anyone? ping me an email if anyone
s got some spots to visit! ive already surfed pichilemu bef
ore...sick wave...so id rather head north...hit me back! jk

holy sheet... an online journal of thoughts...hmmm well im
in mar del plata at the mo, cold as dunnos on a nice southe
rly... surf is ave..3-4ft cross shore and murky lookin, no
body surfs here it appears, cos the surf isnt terrible...ju
st damned cold!

brasil was pretty fun...scored barra
da lagoa,florianopolis for a few days...got me some solid
beacbreak pits around 5-6ft...again no one there seems to l
ike the bigger waves...all the local brazilian bodyboarders
and surfers were hiding in the sheltered corner surfing a
soft 2-3ft breakwall whilst i had a heaving 5-6ft beachbrea
k all to myself! never mind...got some well earned barrels
after having a pretty barren 5 weeks in europe!

port
ugal looks like it promises up some pretty sick waves, so t
hat place is on the list of joints to re visit!

but
ten from ten goes to j bay where i had epic waves over 2 a
nd half weeks back in june! will post some shots soon.... t
hat wave is sooooo much fun to ride...when you can get one
off the local pack of doggs that ride that place! ha haaaa!