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This been a great week. I got a motorcycle given to me, and
I got my ambulance driver licence, and the surfs been good
too.

I went out Wednesday even thou it was raining.


Surf is great this weekend I made it out to Pacifi
ca for Saturday, sets were 7-12ft. Hella exciting. I did ge
t caught in some big sets trying to make it to the&nbs
p;outer shell. Having those wave crash over on top of you i
s frighting, but exciting too. Waves are so powerful and be
autiful like a goddess.

Wish I could go today, but I
need to be a good boy. Stay home and study for my fin
nal exams. I have two one Monday and the other tuesday. The
classes are in Fire Science, I'm studing to be a firefight
er.

Yeah, I've been saving for new fins, so today I got the Vip
er yellow dot. I may would bought the tech 2, but the store
didn't have them in yet. Going to try them out tomorrow. L
et me know if you tried a pair. Like to know what you thoug
ht about them.

I did something bad today, not that bad I didn't get fired
or yell out. I took an extra hour and a half for lunch
, and went to the beach. It was a blast.

I got to ride my new board today, and I was so excited. Whe
n I get to the beach it was a clear skies, calm water with
2-3 foot waves. I couldn't believe my eyes. Ocean Beach is
uselly a danger zone. It was nice I enjoed playing around d
id manage to catch a 5 foot, but did catch a lot of small w
aves. My board is nice and fast like it so far. Maybe OB's
swell will pick up for the weekend and I can really se
e how I like it.

The best thing about this weekend was going to the Lusty La
dy for an eye full.

I spent Saturday morning going
to different beaches seeing what was going on looking for a
new break. Found a few nice wonderful beaches, but today t
hey was just closing out. Blowing white caps big time.
< >BRCalled the day short, instead I'm going to my friend's t
o watch Lords of Dogtown. Better luck next weekend.

Today was
a foggy day at Ocean Beach. The waves were huge and so str
ong. It took me for every to paddle out. Maybe 20 mins agai
ns the current. That was a great work out for sure. When I
made it to my spot I caught a 7ft wave, it was so sick.

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