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Have made a big decision, after the last of my operations I
'm taking my pay out and quitting my job and going overseas
to get waves and have good times! Plan on leaving in June.
.. huge decisiion and more than one person has said I'm stu
pid but f*ck it I really don't care... bring on the good ti
mes!

Oh what a day, me, Tilbury and the young grommet scored big
time on a trip up the coast, sick 4-5 foot empty wedges, s
urfed for 8 hours with not a soul around...everyone got f*c
ken cleaned!! funnest pits coming thru!! would've been bett
er if it was a left but luckily i got a few that i didn't s
lide out on, Tom definitely owned me out there though! He c
harges harder than his Clark Kent like looks and nice guy p
ersona would have you believe was possible! Staying at Coff
ins with Haydar early January, back to my old stomping grou
nd... can't wait!

I can't believe just how much has gone down this year. S
o much has changed in such a short period of time. There I
was, awesome job, good coin, long-term girlfriend, li
v ing in Port Lincoln, even being live on national TV repor
ti ng. .. then sick as a dog, hospital beds, had to resign,
mo ve home, breathing from a machine and my relationship b
uste d up . I lost everything I'd worked so hard for, and a
ll be cause of health problems that were out of my control!

I suppose I could be bitter, but nothing could be furth
er fro m the truth. I really couldn 't be happier with my l
ife rig ht now. Before I had the wrong priorities. I was ha
rdly sur fing, it was all just work, work, work. I for
got all a bout what really made me happy.
Now I'm surfin
g as much as ever, I have a good new job, and am just enjoy
ing rolling with the fellas. I guess the point of all this
is that if something really bad happen s to you, you have t
wo choices.. have a cry and say poor me or stand up and fig
ht and make your life the best it can be. I'm proud to say
I've do ne the latter. Can't wait to see what 2006 brings..
. 

Having spent a bit of time around Cronulla and Maroubra, th
anks to staying at mates places I have met on trips, I was
saddened to see the events that have gone down over the las
t week.

I've had some good times in this area, the p
eople are generally really cool and the waves are every bit
as good as they are made out to be....

However, I'm
definitely not surprised about what happened on Sunday. Fr
om what my mates have told me, the anger from locals&n
bsp;has been boiling for years..

With stories about
guys being bashed for no reason while minding their own bus
iness on the way down for a surf, teenage girls grabbed dow
n at the beach and sexually assaulted, and the unforgiveabl
e bashing of two lifesavers who are giving up their own tim
e to save people's lives.. its no wonder locals are getting
angry.

Now, I don't condone violence but in this ca
se a few kicks to the guys that bashed the lifesavers might
actually be OK. However, there is NO excuse for bashing ra
ndom people, especially women, based solely on their looks.
I'm disgusted to hear neo-nazi's were down at the shire on
sunday, opportunistically there to stir up trouble.

I hope they haven't opened a Pandora's Box, coz if this cr
ap continues its only a matter of time before someone gets
shot or killed. I agree there is a problem with Lebanese ga
ngs, but bashing random women and children is not going to
help.

I really hope both sides can calm down&nb
sp;and I can come back next year and hopefully slide into a
few pits out at Suckies and Island in peace....what happen
ed this week is disgusting and it has no place in our count
ry, which is the best place on earth......

Oh mate, I am getting a bit frustrated with grovelling in&n
bsp;2 foot crap, I still get out there because I am just so
amped to get wet, but it has been a long time since I've b
een out in anything solid and I'm having serious withdrawal
symptoms! Me thinks I was a little spoilt spending most of
last year over on the west coast! Im craving challenging c
onditions...Damn, I miss that consistent juice! But its bee
n sick to be back home with all my mates, and I've met some
cool new crew lately and they are inspiring me with how am
ped they are to get out there, regardless of conditions.

Man, this year has been harsh. Just when I think I'm gettin
g better I find myself in hospital emergency again. To thin
k that something happened in February and I'm still dealing
with sh*t now sucks, and sure I have more f*cked up operat
ions to come, and sure, the doctors say I'll never go
back to normal, and I'll have problems the rest of my life.
..but man, it could be worse. I could be in Iraq
and have my family blown up by bombs, or starving in Africa
. I have realised how fortunate I am to have such great mat
es and a supportive family... and we really are lucky to li
ve in this great country AUSTRALIA. I guess what I'm saying
is it's easy to get caught up in negative stuff in life, b
ut what does that achieve? where does that get you? th
e thing to do is to focus on positives in your life, turn e
very negative into a positive, and things don't seem so bad
..Anyway, laterz.. Frogs.

The last few days have been cooking with solid swell and of
fshore winds. Not epic but there has definitely been some g
reat waves on offer. Feels good to surf waves over two foot
! Good times...

Come on, this is getting frustrating! It's meant to be p
rimetime but haven't had a sick surf in ages! Today was mea
nt to be pumping but dismal small, windy Knights with
no good wedges. Going desert duellin' for a few days with H
aydar and Shannon on Sunday though and the charts look good
... praying for waves and good winds!

"all men die,
but how many truly live?"

Surfed Knights today with Coxy, 3foot, onshore but fun,
still some little ramps although it was bloody cold! My ear
is fucked up from an infection and I've gone deaf, hope th
ose antibiotics kill off that bug soon coz its starting to
piss me off! Ear aches suck! Stay tubed and lubed....

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